In this video I’d like to show you how to make strawberry crochet pattern in round.
In here I make it in multiple of 3dc. You can make it in multiple of 4, 6 or any number. Even number of multiplication would be easier to do than odd number if you are making a piece which require many rounds or rows of strawberry repeats.
In this video I was using turquoise and bright pink size 2 acrylic yarns, and a crochet hook size F/3.75mm.
The pattern:
Ch4, join with sl st to first ch.
R1: 3ch (count as 1dc), 17dc.
R2: 3ch, (5dc in 1, inset hook from first dc through the last dc, pull up a loop, sc4 tog, 1ch, 2dc) repeat 5 times, join with sl st to the 3rd ch from the beginning ch-3, 1ch.
R3: 2sc in ch-1 sp, (2sc in 1) in all st around. Pay attention to the tip of the strawberry making sure not to skip it. If you do, your next round will become narrower and your work puckering.
Continue the circle of the strawberries in this manner if you wish to make a larger round. Refer to the magic circle recipe in my previous post on how to increase the stitches in every round to create the round and flat circle.
I hope you enjoy this video.
I begun to like doing video editing hehe… I am learning everyday.
After vigorous testing, frogging, and re-doing; the patterns is finally finished and listed FREE at RAVELRY for limited time only. If you do download the PDF please give me your feedback, I will appreciate it very much. The videos is being edited and will be uploaded to youtube asap. Thanks for all of you who patiently wait for this.
Note: Please do not copy paste the pattern below as a way of sharing it but link it to my blog instead. If you prefer the PDF version please download from Ravelry. It is free until further notice.
SKILL LEVEL : All levels
TERMS: US PHOTO CREDITS: Irtati Hasan Wibisono
FINISHED SIZE Height: 13 inches Diameter (distance between the longest tip of the petals): 6.5 inches
MATERIALS - Balinese cotton yarn or substitute with mercerized crochet cotton thread size 5 in any colors. In this pattern I uses cream, purple, lilac, red, fuchsia, pink. - ICE yarn 100% acrylic in dark green. 22, 24, and 26 gauge craft wire. Floral stem wrapping tape (0.5 in in diameter).
Hook: C/2.75mm and 3.75mm
GAUGE Balinese cotton: 7 sc = 1 inches ICE yarn: 4 sc = 1 inches when two strands are crocheted together
Pattern Note
This pattern is for two different shape of flowers in one.
All of the petals for the red flower were made in the same way as the Side Petals. The only difference is the amount of the starting chains. Increase the number of chains for center petal by 3. If you wish to have a frillier edging like the purple flower, use the central petal pattern below for all the three petals.
All stitches are worked in round.
Cut the wires as follows:
Anther and its cap: 26-gauge, 7 inch: 2 pieces
Petals and sepals: 24-gauge: 7 inches: 6 pieces
Leafs: 22-gauge: 22 inches: 4 pieces.
Use safety glasses when cutting the wires.
STITCHES USED:
ch = chain
sc = Single Crochet
sl st = Slip Stitch
2 sc in 1 = 2 single crochet in one stitch (increase)
sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
PM: Place Marker (I use a small piece of yarn in different color)
PATTERN:
Anther
Using cream and leaving 6 inches tail, make 2ch.
R1: 8sc into 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st. 1ch.
R2: 1c in same ch-1 sp, 1sc in each st around, join with sl st, 1ch.
R3: (sc2tog) 4 times, sl st to first sc, fasten off yarn.
Anther Cap
Using cream and leaving 6 inches tail, chain 5.
R1: Hold the 26-gauge wire between the hook and the yarn, yo and pull up a loop over the wire, tighten to secure the wire in place, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of next 3 st, 3sc in next st, do not turn, position the center of the wire at the last sc you just made, bend the wire gently toward the other end; sc in each of next 3st, pinch and hold both wires and position it above the yarn, sl st to first sc, 1ch.
R2: 1sc in same ch-1 space, 1sc in each of next 4 st, (2sc in 1 st) 2 times, sc in each of next 4 st, join with sl st to first sc, 1ch.
R3. 1sc in same ch-1 space, sc in each of next st around, join with sl st to first sc, 1ch, fasten off.
Sepals (make 3)
Using purple and leaving 6 inches tail, chain 15.
R1: 1sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of next 12 st, 3sc in next st, Carry the tail inside the stitches, 12sc, 2sc in last st, joins with sl st to first sc.
R2: Hold the 22-gauge wire in between the hook and the yarn, 1ch over the wire, sc in same ch-1 sp, PM, 13sc, position the center of the wire at the corner st and bend it gently to surround the perimeter of the stitches toward the other end, (2sc in 1) 2 times, 14sc, pinch and hold both wires and position it above the yarn, 1sc, join with sl st to first sc.
R3: PM, 14sc, (2sc in 1) 3 times, 15sc, hold both wires above the yarn, 1sc, 1sc in 1 in next st, join with sl st to first sc.
R4: PM, 15sc, (2sc in 1) 3 times, 17sc, hold both wires above the yarn, 2sc. Cut the yarn 7 inches from the last then pull it out through the last sc, Insert hook below the two loops on the first sc, yo, pull up the loop completely through the loops. Insert the hook from below the back loop at the last sc and pull the yarn through to the the back of the leaf. Gent pull and wind the it several times to the wire and tie a knot to secure the the end.
Side Petals (make 2)
Using purple and leaving 6 inches tail, chain 15.
R1: 1sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of next 12 st, 3sc in next st, Carry the tail inside the stitches, 12sc, 2sc in last st, joins with sl st to first sc.
R2: Hold the 22-gauge wire in between the hook and the yarn, 1ch over the wire, sc in same ch-1 sp, PM, 13sc, position the center of the wire at the corner st and bend it gently to surround the perimeter of the stitches toward the other end, (2sc in 1) 2 times, 14sc, pinch and hold both wires and position it above the yarn, 1sc, join with sl st to first sc.
R3: PM, (2sc in 1) in all st around, join with sl st to first sc.
R4: PM, sc in all st around, join with sl st to first sc.
R5: PM, sc in all st around, join with sl st to first sc.
R6: Insert hook in same joining st, pick up cream, (sc, 3ch, sc) in same sp, (sc in next st, sc, 3ch, sc in next st) Repeat around, join with sl st to first sc, fasten off.
Center Petals
Using lilac and leaving 6 inches tail, chain 13.
R1: 1sc in 2nd ch from hook, 10sc, 3sc in next st. Carry the tail inside the stitches, sc in each of next 11 st.—25sc.
R2: Hold the 24-gauge wire in between the hook and the yarn, sc in same joining sp, PM, 11sc, position the center of the wire at the corner st, bend the wire gently toward the other end, (2sc in 1) 2 times, 12sc, pinch and hold both wires and position the wire above the yarn, join with sl st to first sc—28sc
R3: 1sc in same joining sp, PM, 12sc, (2sc in 1) 3 times, 13sc, join with sl st to first sc—32sc.
R4: 1sc in same joining sp, PM, 13sc, (2sc in 1 st, 1sc) 5 times, 14sc, join with sl st to first sc—38sc.
R5: 1sc in same joining sp, 38sc, join with sl st—39sc.
R6: 1sc in same joining sp, PM, 4sc, (2sc in 1) 5 times, 5sc, (2sc in 1) 10 times, 5sc, (2sc in 1) 5 times, 4sc, join with sl st to first sc.
R7: 1sc in same ch-1 sp, 5sc, (2sc in 1) 10 times, 5sc, (2sc in 1) 20 times, 5sc, (2sc in 1) 10 times, 5sc, join with sl st to first sc, fasten off.
R 8: Insert hook in same joining st, pick up cream, (sc, 3ch, sc) in same sp, (sc in next st, sc, 3ch, sc in next st) Repeat around, join with sl st to first sc, fasten off.
Leafs
Note: Increase the number of the starting chains for a longer leaf. To make a wider leafs crochet 2 more rounds increasing stitches at the tip of the leaf by making (2 sc in 1) 5, 7 more times respectively.
Material: ICE Yarn Dark Green, 100% acrylic, ft 27442.
Crochet double strands and leaving 6 inches tail, chain 15.
R1: 1sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of next 12 st, 3sc in next st, Carry the tail inside the stitches, 12sc, 2sc in last st, joins with sl st to first sc.
R2: Hold the 22-gauge wire in between the hook and the yarn, 1ch over the wire, sc in same ch-1 sp, PM, 13sc, position the center of the wire at the corner st and bend it gently to surround the perimeter of the stitches toward the other end, (2sc in 1) 2 times, 14sc, pinch and hold both wires and position it above the yarn, 1sc, join with sl st to first sc.
R3: PM, 14sc, (2sc in 1) 3 times, 15sc, hold both wires above the yarn, 1sc, 1sc in 1 in next st, join with sl st to first sc.
R4: PM, 15sc, (2sc in 1) 3 times, 17sc, hold both wires above the yarn, 2sc. Cut the yarn 7 inches from the last then pull it out through the last sc, Insert hook below the two loops on the first sc, yo, pull up the loop completely through the loops. Insert the hook from below the back loop at the last sc and pull the yarn through to the the back of the leaf. Gently pull and wind the it several times to the wire and tie a knot to secure the the end.
Assembly
Preparing the leafs and petals:
Cut 15 inches of thread, fold in half and connect it to the center bottom part of the leaf. Pull the thread gently toward the wire. Using flower tape, wrap around the wire and the threads till the end of the wires. Repeat for the rest of the leafs and petals except the center petal, anther and cap.
Cut 10 inches of wire, fold it in half. Insert the wire into the center of the anther and pull it down gently passing through some of the stitches at bottom part. Put together the anther and its cap, wrap with flower tape.
Pick up the center petal. Hold it right side facing up and place the anther facing down toward the petal. Hold together and wrap with flower tape.
Gather together all the flower elements. Using 26 gauge wire, wrap around the neck of the flower several times to secure them together (do not cut the wire). Attach a leaf at about 4 inches from the neck of the flower. Attach remaining leafs about 1 inches apart, finish the wire wrapping. Using flower tape, wrap around the stem starting form the neck of the flower all the way to the end of the stem.
Arrange the flower in a vase (pattern not included).
Please do not hesitate to email me for any questions or comments or different ideas to make it better and spread the words about my blog to others so they can make one too.
Wouldn't it be nice to have access to a crochet program, not to replace human function, not to industrialized crochet as it has done with knitting, but just to make it easy for us who design the piece so we can spend our time designing and crocheting instead of writing and drawing? Could this software be the answer?
Here I am trying to review the Crochet Charts for its functionality in random order as I go.Crochet ChartsVersion: 1.1.4-3-g9ec4511 (built on Apr 1 2013 19:23:21)Copyright (c) 2010-2013 Stitch Works SoftwareIt's a software is for creating crochet charts that can be exported in many different file types such as PDF, JPG SVF, TIF, PNG. 1. Stitch EditYou have to click on this tool to be able to add stitches to your chart. 2. Row EditI noticed that if any blank space included in your stitch drawing art board, that is going to be considered by the program as part of the stitch. This blank space will give you problems later when using the Row Edit function as it makes it hard for it to determine the actual row you are selecting and you ended up blaming the software for its incapability of doing what you told it to do.When you connect the stitches to create a chart row, a Copy Instruction menu appear at the bottom. I particularly like this function because it helps a lot in preparing your written pattern. 3. Scale EditI love how it rescales your image in a smooth and easy way. As long as you don't let go of your mouse it will continue reshaping until you achieve the size and shape required. 4. Rotation EditThe manual says: In this mode you can edit the angle that the stitch is tilted at. You can rotate the stitch 360° relative to the bottom of the stitch. For minor adjustments to the angle of a stitch or selection of stitches you can use then arrow keys. Right or Down are clock-wise and Left or Up are counter-clockwise. Rotation edit only function for a single stitch and it does not function when you want to rotate a group of stitches. If you try to rotate a group, each of the stitches in the group will rotate according to the angle it was tilted at. 5. Color EditFabulous tool especially for creating crochet graph or tapestry crochet. 6. Indicator EditGreat tool and the number is editable too making it very useful to indicate each rows or round in the chart. Align and DistributeExcellent tool to tidy up those messy chart after placing so many stitches. Mirror There are several selections, fixed degree and custom and all good. This function makes repeating patterns easier and faster. The only minor thing is the absence of the ability to dictate where exactly you wish to place the new image. Yes it's mirrors it but then it also moved it to a certain degree from the source image. Also I noticed that the program memorized the stitch you placed on your chart. This is a bit annoying when you rescale your stitch it doesn't recognize your updated version and gives you your old stitches instead and then you have to rescale it again. ShortcutsAll the tool edits has shortcuts which is excellent for maneuvering between edit functions. Copying and PastingWould be nice if there are several options to to paste the object such as Paste Into instead of Paste and Move as it is right now. Paste into would be more useful as you can immediately flip it and paste it across the chart using its mirror function.Tips: Before copying and pasting a complex chart, group them first, copy then paste. Program crashedI have love and hate relationship with this software for the past few days. At one time there is much more hate than love. After working half a day on my complex Nihon Vogue inspired graph, it crashed on me so all the works were gone and what left was just pain in my neck. I browsed online and found out I am not the only one. There is another person at least experiencing the same problem as I am. So her computer too crashes after the stitches being added to the library. I was thinking could it be the size of the scratch disk assigned to it, is not big enough? Later on I found out the source of the problem. At least one of the source of the problems. I re opened the file that giving me the problem, open the Stitch Library, removed the new stitches I added. When I look at the stitch preview I noticed that I had made my stitches far too big... so after removing the stitches, I restarted the program and create a new file... voila, problems gone. The program function again as before. Hope this help anyone whose having the same problem as I did. The programmer already told me to read the manual, I was just too lazy to do that. It's clearly say the size of the image for your stitches was suggested at 64 x 64 pt Hah! No wonder it crashes because mine was a humongous A4 size lol. I learned my lesson. Exporting FilesExcellent tool and great variety of final results including editable PDF. You can export the chart as PDF, JPG SVF, TIF, PNG. But I want more:On my list of request there are: 1. Layers, Rullers, Gridlines2. Copy Instruction It would be nice to have it according to the standard pattern writing according to the common standard usage. Craft Yarn Council give these written example:: 14 sc. (14 sc).—14 sc.Crochet stitches uses: : Dc 20, t-ch3 1, sl st 1.Which version do you think is easier to read? I am grateful this software is made. I give the programmer 2 thumbs up. I have purchased the software and will continue to update as it is available.That's all for now. I will update as I go. Pictured above one quick simple chart made using the software. Some feedbacks from the programmerHere below are my email correspondents with the programmer and some feedbacks from him on the software developments. I am exited to see how far this program can take me crocheting:Would you please show me the link to an example of chart to text files? Once you've connected the rows using the Row edit feature, you can copy the text to clipboard using the "Copy Instructions" button at the bottom left of the main window. Once I have created a chart, do I have to manually count and type the numberof stitches in every round? Can the software do it for me? At this time the software does not do a row by row stitch count. This feature is on my wish list. Also are you going to add in the feature, transforming text into graph? would be great if that can be done. Text-to-chart conversion is currently on my schedule for a mid-2014 release.
Guess what excited me so much today? Oh, I can't wait to share this with you. If you are into tapestry or fillet crochet, you must look at this. And best of all, it's free. If you scroll down to my previous post you will see my post on creating tapestry graph using Adobe Illustrator. Ah well, forget about that for now. Just look at these two I created using Stitchboard.com (No, I am not affiliated with this company). The way the stitched sits on top of each other perfectly mimicking those of the crochet graph, slanted. I mind you that I have not tested this pattern. This software creates for you the patterns for your beading, crochet, cross stitch and knitting. Stitchboard.com provide 8 steps in creating your pattern. Step No. 8 is for member only and membership is free. For creating Tapestry Crochet I used the following steps: 1. Upload your image in gif, jpg or png 2. Stitching category select Beading 3. Stitch type select Brick 4. Desired stitch type select Oval 5. Color palette option. You need to decide on the following options: a) Color Palette Desired: a) any palette among the 3 b)Automatic closest color match or choose your own colors c) Colors desired in the final pattern: Choose any form : limit the number of colors, shades of gray or black and white.
6. Enter the number of stitches across. 7. Select your output from the two options: save as PDF or pattern on screen. And you can ask the program to create grid for easy reading. Omit step 8 if you are not registering yourself as member. Fillet Crochet Pattern 1. Upload your image in gif, jpg or png 2. Stitching category select Crochet (other option is Beading, Cross Stitch, and Knitting) 3. Stitch type select Standard 4. Desired stitch Standard 5. Color palette option. You need to decide on the following options: a) Color Palette Desired: a) any palette among the 3 b) Automatic closest color match or choose your own colors c) Colors desired in the final pattern: Choose any form : limit the number of colors, shades of gray or black and white.
6. Enter the number of stitches across. 7. Select your output from the two options: save as PDF or pattern on screen. And you can ask the program to create grid for easy reading. Omit step 8 if you are not registering yourself as member.
These yarns are among my favorite yarns to crochet with. I have crocheted many different type of yarns from different brands available in the market. I am also in fact a yarn reseller for ICE Yarns, but till now I am not able to find the comparison for the softness of this particular yarns with any type. It's just so unique. The yarns is locally made in Indonesia and it comes without label. I have been crocheting this yarn for the items as seen in the pictures in my blog from Strawberry crochet bag, hat, flowers and dollies. The texture is soft like bamboo and very comfortable to crochet. But unlike bamboo which is light and rather fluffy, this yarn is stiff once crocheted making it suitable for bags, purses, dollies, hats, and decorative items. I was thinking it could be good for making a bed spread with it and cushion covers. I don't know if this yarn would be suitable for a baby blanket, but I can only tell you it is smooth, it is soft, it feels like bamboo, it feels like mercerize cotton but it is heavier than acrylic of course. I really think it could make a great baby bootie, sturdy enough but won't be slippery like acrylic. And perhaps to make some amigurumies.
The yarn available in two sizes: Fine/Sports ( Size 2) Content: Cotton and Polyester
Now that you have crocheted those beautiful things, the first things you wanted to to do most likely is taking its picture either to share on Facebook or to publish it to your Flickr album etc. You want to see the colors of your item showing in the picture as close as possible to its true color. Of course you can edit the photo and manipulate it later, but nothing is better than having a great photo on the first place. Most professional photographers edit their photos only very slightly just to correct the shadows and the highlights. The diagram above shows how you can light up the shadow area of your subject by using a reflector which you can make yourself.
To get better pictures of your crochet items:
- Take photo during daylight under the shade either morning (9-10 am) of late afternoon. I mostly take my pictures at around 4 - 5 pm utilizing the light coming from my window.
- use reflector as above. To make one, cut a cardboard paper about 60 x 40 inches, cover it with aluminum foil (crush the foil and gently flatten it before wrapping it into the cardboard).
- use a clean white art paper to place your item.
- remove anything else which are not part of the subject of your photo.
Whether you are using a sophisticate camera or a mobile phone camera, the above tips will help making your photos look more appealing.
More tips to come, so please come again.
This kuffah was taken solely with the light source coming from the window. Look at the soft shadow on the left and the clearer view of the stitches which would have been too dark without the use of reflector.
I do not have a sophisticated studio like a pro has. My "studio" is a corner of my son's room which I temporarily occupy while he is in the college. I am grateful to my husband who support me and giving me access to a Canon 5DMarkII. Saying that, under the right light, my iPhone takes better pictures sometimes. Here is the set up of my photo shoot looks like. No matter what kind of camera I am using I always try to use a tripod or a pile of books, a beanie bag, anything to keep your camera steady. Camera shake will caused your photos blurry.
If you are familiar with tapestry crochet, and you are tired of tracing your image manually from tapestry crochet graph into traditional graph paper... Well if you have access to an Adobe Illustrator or any similar program you can do this trick with ease.
1. Download your Crochet Graph at Tapestrycrochet.com The sample above uses a Round tapestry crochet graph. Download the one suitable to your need. Create a traditional graph in any software (excel is much faster) and save it as PDF.
2. Open a new blank file in Adobe Illustrator. Place the image you wish to trace. Place a crochet graph on top of the image. A new layer will automatically created for you when you place an image. Set the opacity of the Crochet graph to 60% so you can see the image underneath it.
3. Place the traditional graph on top of the crochet graph. Zoom in and adjust the size of the cell in new graph to match the size of the graph underneath. Set the opacity to 30% so you can see all layers underneath: the crochet graph and the traditional graph and the image. Once opened in Illustrator, the graph will turn into an editable squares. Now you can click the corresponding cell on the graph and paint it.
Imagine having to trace a large and complex images. This method is going to save you a lot of time.You can print the chart and color it manually for the fun part of it. Have fun coloring :-)
